Notes on Hot Rod Wiring from Al at
AutoReWire.comJust a few things to consider when wiring your Hot Rod, Custom, Street Rod or Race Car.
If you are putting your battery in the trunk, running a Huge Stereo or have an alternator putting out over 100 amps use at least a number 8 AWG wire between the Alternator and the Battery.
If you need Brighter Headlights wire them up with a Relay so they get a full 12 - 14 volts from the battery.
See this example.If you are using small taillights, such as '39 Fords or Early Chevy, use Ron Francis "Bright Bulbs". They DO make a Big Difference. Loose the Blue Dots... They may look Cool, but, they're Dangerous...
Be careful with halogen bulbs they draw much more current, get hot enough to melt plastic housings and lenses and can melt wiring insulation if the wire is sized too small.
Don't run a fuse larger than the amperage that the smallest wire in the circuit can safely carry.
Check this chart. Remember the farther you go the heavier the wire.If you are mounting the Battery in the Trunk., use at least 1/0 battery cable (or better yet a Welding Cable). Steel is a poor electrical conductor. The large size of most automobile frames make it possible to use them for a large bus bar in spite of this fact. Weld ground Studs to the frame, clean off all paint and use internal/external star washers on ALL battery cable connections. Make sure the motor and the body are both properly grounded. If it's a unibody car it's best to run a ground cable back up to the starter.
Most Automotive Electrical Problems are GROUNDING Problems. If you're having a problem with something and find there is power to it double-check your grounds (including the battery cables).
Any and all comments are welcome. If you feel something should be added please let me know.
Al@AutoReWire.comal