Changing your 6 volt vehicle to 12 volts by Al at AutoReWire.com
Converting from 6 volts to 12 volts is pretty straight
forward.
I get a lot of emails regarding this subject. What I have done here is to
provide you with a sort of road map to perform the conversion. Obviously
you will need a few parts and some supplies. I have included links to the
products that we normally keep in stock and have included links to others that
supply products we don't stock.
If your wires are in good condition they will handle the 12 volts just fine
as they are twice as heavy as they need to be. The same is true of the
switches in the vehicle.
Remove the old Battery and DO NOT INSTALL THE
NEW ONE UNTIL YOUR DONE.
GENERATOR If you are keeping a generator you
will need to replace both the generator and the voltage regulator with units
for a '55 or later model.
If you are replacing the generator with an alternator I would suggest that you
Google " replace generator with alternator " for a better
understanding of what is involved. I will outline below the most popular
GM alternator conversion. I have also supplied links to Mark Hamilton's
site as he does a great job of describing the reason
for using a 3 wire instead of the popular 1 wire alternator.
GM 10 or 12 SI ALTERNATOR - Most Popular Conversion
Remove the generator, voltage regulator and the wiring between the two.
Mount a GM 10si or 12si alternator in place of the generator. Universal
brackets are available at most local Napa
auto parts stores. On most vehicles you can simply cut the appropriate
lengths of 3/8" black iron pipe to make the spacers you need to install
the alternator. You may have to change pulleys if you have an older
engine that uses a wide V belt. For information on part numbers and case
clocking go here.
You will need to open up the wiring harness to do this if you haven't
already. We have 3/4" and 1-1/4" Non Adhesive Harness Tape
available to properly re-wrap the harness.
Splice a 10 gauge wire onto the BAT wire that went to the voltage regulator and
connect it to the BAT terminal on the GM alternator. Don't go to the
trouble of buying a 1 wire alternator unless you just want to get a chrome
unit. The factory 3 wire units will last longer and charge
better. For more info on this subject go here.
If you are using an ammeter in the dash DO NOT use an alternator larger than 63
amps and MAKE SURE that you install a 4 inch (minimum) length of 16 gauge
fusible link between the alternator and the ammeter so that the gauge does not
become the fuse in the circuit. I install it at the alternator to keep it
out of the passenger compartment and for ease of service if it should ever
fail. We have the Fusible Link Kits available.
If you have a dash indicator light splice a length of 20 or 18 gauge wire between the wire that went to the ARM on the voltage
regulator and connect it to the # 1 terminal on the alternator. Go here for a drawing. If you DO NOT
have a dash light you will need to run a 20 or 18 gauge wire from the IGN
switch to the # 1 terminal on the alternator and install a 10 Ohm 10 Watt
resistor somewhere in that line in a place where it has good air
circulation.
It is best to run at least 36 inches of 12 gauge wire from the #2 terminal on
the alternator to the BAT connector on the starter solenoid (or the fuse panel
or the horn relay) as apposed to just jumping it as shown in my drawing.
If you read the Mark Hamilton article you will know why.
Another tip on Fusible Links. GM designed the
systems with the sensing splice in the harness and the 10 gauge system supply
wire has a fusible link at the starter solenoid. If you run the sensing
wire to the starter solenoid you are smart to install a fusible link in it AND
in the BAT charge wire. The ROT(rule of thumb)
is to use a fusible link that is four sizes smaller than the wire you are
protecting. So if you using a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the
starter solenoid then you would use a 4 to 6 inch length of 16 gauge fusible
link.
OTHER PARTS
STARTER... Your existing 6 volt starter will work just fine for a long
time if you do not crank it for long periods of time. Of course cranking
any starter for long periods will burn 'em up (as in
throwing solder due to over heating) but the 12 volt driven 6 volt starter will
get hot quicker and throw solder sooner that a 12 volt unit Replace
the starter solenoid with a 12 volt unit for a '55 or later model. I have
the early Ford style in stock for $ 10.00.
COIL... You can use the original coil but you must install a new ceramic
resistor between the coil and the ignition switch. I always test the coil
output when I convert a car for a customer but it requires a special tester
that most people don't have. Anything over 30,000 volts is sufficient for
a non performance engine. You will need to reverse the polarity of the
coil if your 6 volt systems was Positive ground as
most were. Wiring should run from IGN switch to one end of the ceramic
resistor then from the other end of the resistor to the + post on the coil then
from - post on coil to the points. Points and condenser can be
retained if they are in good condition. If you need a new condenser, one
for any 12 volt vehicle '55 or later that fits in the distributor will
work.
HORN RELAY... Replace the horn relay with a 12 volt unit. Most 6
volt horns will work for a very long time on 12 volts, eventually you might
need to change them to 12 volt units. Some fan fair horns have an
adjustment knob on the disc that you can adjust the tone with. I wear ear
protection when doing this, you should too. We have some good USA
manufactured units for $ 30.00 a pair... They are plentiful at the local
pull your own part wrecking yards too.
LIGHTS... Replace the headlamps and all of the light bulbs with new 12 volt
units.
GAUGES... Install one of our $3.00 (each) voltage reducers for each of
your electrical dash gauges. Not needed for the Ammeter.
HEATER ... Install a 1 Ohm ceramic reducer between the heater switch and the
heater blower motor. $ 29.00 each.
WIPERS... If you have electric wipers you will need to install a 1.5 Ohm
ceramic reducer between the switch and the motor. $ 22.00 each.
TURN SIGNALS... Change turn signal flasher to a 12 volt unit. $
3.30 each..
POWER SEAT and CONVERTIBLE TOP MOTORS... Most will work fine with a 1 Ohm
Ceramic Resistor others will need a pair of 1.5 Ohm Ceramic Resistors wired
parallel to produce .75 Ohms. Best way to test for what you need its to install a 1 Ohm and then check the voltage at the
motor with it running. It should be between 6.5 - 7.5 volts although
something less will work without damage. If the voltage is below 6 volts
you might need to go to two 1.5 ohm resistors.
RADIO... As for the radio, the best bet is to go to Custom Auto Sound
and get a unit that will replace your original.
You could also have your 6 volt radio rebuilt to work on 12 volts. Do a
Google search on "Antique Auto Radio" for more
information. For the D.I.Y. who wants to "try" and make it work
read this and this.
CLOCK... It is best to have a new quartz movement installed. Do a
Google Search on "Automotive
Clock Quartz Conversion" for more info.
To purchase any of the above products please visit our Web Store or our Ebay Store.
If you can't find them in our stores we are temporarily out of stock. You
can call me at 209-481-6496 anytime 8am to 8pm Pacific time
to order with a credit card or send me an email with your needs and I can send
you a Paypal or Google Checkout invoice.
International shipping is available.
Any and all comments are
welcome. If you feel something should be added please let me know. Al@AutoReWire.com.
Al
eMail=Al@AutoReWire.com
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